1 Year with GTR Bi LED Car Projector: Real Data, Night Drives & Lessons Learned

I installed a set of bi led car projector retrofit kits on my 2016 Subaru Outback exactly 13 months ago. Not as a YouTube influencer – as a regular driver who was tired of almost hitting deer on my rural Vermont commute. This is my raw, unsponsored long-term log: what worked, what surprised me, and the exact numbers from before and after. If you’re still on the fence, my real-world experience will tell you more than any spec sheet.

The “Before” Baseline: Why I Finally Gave Up on Halogen

My stock halogen projectors (yes, even factory projectors) produced only 38 lux at 75 meters on a dry road. That’s below the IIHS recommended minimum of 40 lux for safe obstacle detection. In rain, that number dropped to 22 lux. I had three near-misses with animals in one winter.

I logged my commute for two weeks using a Uni-T UT383BT lux meter taped to my dashboard. Each night at the same stretch of unlit road, I recorded peak hotspot intensity. The best halogen reading was 41 lux on a clear night – but that dropped to 36 lux after 6 months of bulb degradation. Worse, the color temperature (around 3200K) made wet asphalt look like a black hole. I tried “premium” halogen bulbs (+150% claim). Actual improvement: 12%.

I considered HID kits. But I’ve seen too many melted wiring harnesses and the 5-second warm-up is unacceptable when you need to flash someone. So I started researching bi-LED projectors – specifically the hjg 3 inch bi led car projector 140w model from GTR India (www.rhgtr.in).

Selection & Purchase: Why I Chose the GTR HJG 3-Inch 140W Over Others

I compared three contenders: a generic $120 projector with plastic lens, a mid-tier $280 unit with glass but a small fan, and the GTR HJG 3-inch at $359. The GTR won on thermal design (copper heat pipe + dual ball fan) and the 100k-cycle solenoid claim – plus the 2-year warranty through rhgtr.in.

Spec sheet honesty matters. The “140W” on the GTR is actual input power measured at 13.8V, not peak marketing nonsense. I confirmed with a clamp meter: 9.7A per projector, steady after 30 minutes. The generic “120W” unit actually drew 68W after thermal throttling. I also liked that GTR provided a downloadable PDF with exact mounting bracket dimensions – I could 3D-print a test ring before cutting my headlights open.

Ordering from www.rhgtr.in was straightforward. Shipping to my US address took 6 days. The package included:

• Two complete projector modules with pre-installed lenses
• Two relay harnesses with DT connectors
• Four centering rings (for various reflector bowls)
• Butyl rubber sealant strip
• Printed manual with QR codes to install videos

No missing screws, no damaged boxes. Good first impression.

Installation Log: 7 Hours, 2 Beers, and One Lesson About Patience

The hardest part is not the wiring – it’s opening the headlight cleanly. I used a heat gun (1100°F on low) and a large flathead screwdriver. Work slowly. My first headlight took 2.5 hours; the second took 45 minutes. The actual projector mounting took 20 minutes each side once the bowls were exposed.

Step-by-step what I did differently from most guides:

1. Removed front bumper and unbolted headlights (2016 Outback: 4 bolts per side, disconnect leveling motor plug).
2. Heat-gunned the seam at 250°F, pried open carefully – the butyl rubber stretched like warm taffy.
3. Removed the factory halogen projector by unscrewing three 8mm nuts from the back of the reflector bowl.
4. The GTR HJG’s mounting holes aligned perfectly with two of the three OEM posts. I used the included adapter ring for the third point.
5. Before sealing, I bench-tested both projectors using a 12V battery. The cutoff was razor-sharp – but the left unit’s solenoid sounded slighly different. I called GTR support (number from the manual). They said it’s normal break-in and to cycle it 20 times. After 10 cycles, the sound equalized.
6. I re-sealed with the provided butyl strip, pressed the lens back on, and clamped with large rubber bands overnight.
7. Reinstalled headlights, aimed them using the 25-foot wall method – my hot spot was 2 inches low on driver side, adjusted with the OEM screw.

Verdict: doable for a weekend mechanic. Allow a full Saturday. If you’re not comfortable with a heat gun, pay a pro – but I’m glad I did it myself.

Night 1 Results: “Holy Light” Moment (With Data)

First drive: the difference is not subtle. At 75 meters, my lux meter recorded 157 lux – over 4x my old halogen. But the real story is the beam shape: the hotspot is concentrated straight ahead, but the peripheral spread widens by about 40% on each side. I could see mailbox reflectors on both shoulders simultaneously.

I ran the same test route with the same meter. Here’s the before/after table:

The high beam is an absolute wall of light. I clocked reflective road signs at 800 meters – that’s half a mile. The electromagnetic shield moves instantly, no lag. And importantly: no oncoming driver has flashed me. The cutoff line stays below the side mirrors of sedans.

6-Month Check: Thermal Performance & Fan Noise

After 6 months and about 8,000 miles, I disassembled one headlight (just the back cap) to inspect. The fan was clean – no dust buildup because the GTR uses a reverse-rotation design that blows outward, not inward. The copper heat pipe still had full contact. Thermal paste was still wet.

I measured case temperature with an IR gun after 1 hour of continuous driving in 85°F weather: 81°C on the driver module, 79°C passenger. That’s well within the LED’s 105°C max junction spec. Fan noise? You can hear it if you put your ear next to the headlight with the engine off. Inside the car with windows closed, zero noise. After 6 months, no change in noise level. Compare to a friend’s cheap Amazon projector: his fan started grinding at 4 months.

One unexpected benefit: the 6000K color temperature makes road markings pop. Snowfall at night used to be a white blur; now I can see individual flakes and lane lines clearly. The downside? Reflections off wet roads can be intense, but the sharp cutoff prevents that glare from bouncing into my eyes – actually better than halogen.

12-Month Update: Still Going Strong (But One Minor Issue)

At month 11, I noticed the passenger-side low beam flickered twice during a cold start (-8°C). It stabilized after 2 seconds. I contacted GTR support via www.rhgtr.in chat. They diagnosed it as a possible CANbus interference and sent me a pair of load resistors for free (shipped from their Mumbai warehouse to US in 5 days). Installed them inline – problem gone. That’s service.

After 13 months and 16,000 miles, here’s what has NOT happened:

• No yellowing of the glass lens
• No moisture inside the housing (I resealed properly)
• No drop in perceived brightness (I re-measured: 149 lux – a 5% drop, likely within meter error)
• No solenoid sticking or delayed high beam

The only wear: the rubber dust boots on the back of the headlights have a small crack from heat cycling. That’s a $8 replacement. I consider that acceptable.

Real Talk: What I’d Do Differently & Who Should NOT Do This

This retrofit is not for everyone. If you lease your car, don’t open the headlights – you’ll void any warranty and cannot reverse it cleanly. Also, if you’re not comfortable with soldering or reading wiring diagrams, the relay harness might confuse you. Pay a pro. My total out-of-pocket: $359 for projectors + $45 for butyl tape and tools. A shop quoted $650 installed. I saved $250 and gained experience.

What I’d do differently: I’d buy an extra set of rubber o-rings for the solenoid connector (not included). Also, I’d prep a cardboard template of the projector’s footprint before cutting the reflector bowl – I guessed and had to dremel a bit more. Not a big deal.

Who should absolutely buy the GTR HJG bi led car projector:

• Rural drivers who face unlit highways
• Overlanders and off-roaders needing high-beam distance
• Anyone with failing factory HID or halogen projectors (instead of buying OEM replacements at $800 each)

Who should skip:

• City drivers with well-lit streets – you won’t appreciate the difference
• People who just want “blue lights” for looks – get LED bulbs and be a hazard (I won’t help you)
• Drivers of cars with integrated LED modules (e.g., 2020+ Acura MDX) – you can’t retrofit those easily

Frequently Asked Questions from My Instagram Followers

1. Does the GTR bi-led projector work with Subaru’s steering-responsive headlights?

Yes – the leveling motor and swivel functions are completely independent. The GTR projector replaces only the light source and shield; the housing’s mechanical actuators still work. My Outback’s adaptive headlights still turn left/right normally.

2. How hot does the back of the projector get? Will it melt my dust cap?

The heatsink reaches about 70-80°C – similar to a halogen bulb’s base. Use a high-temp silicone dust cap (GTR sells them for $12). My stock rubber cap developed a small crack after 8 months, so I replaced it.

3. Can I use the 140W setting every day, or is it only for high beam?

The “140W” is total system power; the low beam draws ~70W per side, high beam adds another ~70W. It’s designed for continuous use. I’ve driven 5-hour trips with high beam on for 3 hours straight – no overheating.

4. Did you need to aim them differently than manual says?

No. The 2-inch drop at 25 feet is perfect. But I did tweak the driver side 0.5 inches higher because of road crown – personal preference.

5. Would you buy them again?

Absolutely. In fact, I’m ordering a 2.5-inch set for my motorcycle next month – from www.rhgtr.in again.

Final Verdict: A Bi LED Car Projector That Delivers on Every Promise

After one full year of real-world abuse – Vermont winters, construction zones, torrential downpours – my GTR bi led car projector retrofit remains the single best safety upgrade I’ve made. Not a single component failure. The light output still dwarfs any new car’s factory LEDs I’ve parked next to. If you’re tired of guessing what’s in the dark, stop reading reviews and start planning your install.

Visit www.rhgtr.in – use my experience as your guide. Their chat team will verify fitment for your car in minutes. And if you mention this article, they might throw in free dust boots (no promises, but ask nicely). Drive safe – and finally see what you’ve been missing.